A Detour to the Tetons
With half of our trip ahead of us, Jim noticed that one of the back tires had picked up a screw in the tread. Inspecting all four of the back tires he determined it was time to replace them (35,000 miles will do that!). We have learned that RV tires are not typically carried “in-stock” by tire stores. Not wanting to risk a flat, we called ahead to order replacements and have them delivered to Idaho Falls where a local Discount Tire store could install them.
Our trip to Idaho Falls to replace the RV tires was a timely one. We needed a "big city" visit to restock groceries and a few other supplies that are hard to get in the small communities around the National Parks. Since we would be here for a couple of days we decided to make a quick detour and get an up-close look at Grand Teton National Park. We had not actually planned a visit to the Park on this trip, but we were so close in Idaho Falls that it seemed a shame to miss it. That meant we had to find a campground.
Google Maps has become one of my "go-to" tools for finding campgrounds for our trips. On this trip west, we have stumbled upon local gems that rate good reviews even if they are a bit off the beaten path. One such is Juniper Campground at the Ririe Reservoir in Bonneville County Idaho. This is a terrific little campground with level sites, full hookups, a stunning view of the reservoir (and boat ramp access) as well as lovely landscaping.
The site is situated high on a ridge overlooking the reservoir and, on the opposite ridge is a wind turbine farm. It is there for good reason, the breezes are continuous and delightful in the August heat. The trees all over the campground 'shush' with sound as the wind rushes through the branches.
The sites are paved and surrounded by lush green lawns making the whole park look almost residential. Located about thirty minutes outside of Idaho Falls, the park was on our route to Grand Teton National Park. Quiet at night with stars twinkling overhead, it is a nice departure from the RV parks right on the main highway. Once we took care of the tires, we headed for camp and a good night's rest.
We rose early to get to the Park before the crowds. It was almost a two-hour drive and we had a choice of two routes, one suggested by I-Maps and one Jim mapped on the old atlas. It seemed to him that the scenic route would follow the Snake River, gradually climbing into the mountains to reach Jackson Hole, just minutes from Grand Teton's south entrance. The I-Map route was shorter but looked like it climbed over a mountain pass. We decided to take the scenic route - US 26 -to get to Grand Teton and take the shorter route, over Teton Pass, back to camp.
The scenic route was a four-lane highway with grades of 6% and 7%. The Unity handled those with ease - no strain, no slow down, just cruising speed. The views on US 26 along the Snake River are spectacular. From US 26 we watched the river winding its way through valleys and canyons. Stunning areas with gravel bars where I imagined stepping into the shallows to cast a line for a trout. Watching the drift boats and groups on rafts tumble down the river and finding a dozen small boondocking camps along the river's banks. The climb to Jackson Hole was winding but not so steep. The edge of the road seemed to end in spectacular drop-offs that made me a bit uneasy, but Jim easily navigated the turns and slopes without effort.
Finally, we reached Jackson Hole. It's a surprisingly large town at the top of the mountain. With all the trappings of any resort city, there was a lot to see. The park in the center of town is famous for its arches made from cast-off elk antlers. They tower over the sidewalk and make quite a statement. We arrived on a Saturday and the local farmer's market was in full swing on one side of the park.
Just beyond Jackson Hole, a broad stretch of land betrays the altitude. It looks like acres of farmland bounded on either side by mountain ranges. Bike paths follow the road and weave through the town and into the National Park and seem deceivingly flat. The incline seems so gradual it goes unnoticed - until you have to pedal!
We finally arrived at the entrance to Grand Teton National Park and the Craig Thomas Visitor and Discovery Center. What a stunning piece of architecture! Huge glass windows face the Tetons giving an amazing view as soon as you step inside. Each of the peaks has a corresponding ribbon of bronze inlaid in the floor naming the peak and its elevation and then continues through the glass wall to the patio in the direction of the peak it names.
The exhibit on the mountain range is quite good, telling the story of its geology; the shifting plates that push the range further into the sky while pushing the valley lower. If it were not for the rocky debris dropped in the valley, the valley floor would be almost 30,000 feet below the Teton's peaks. That's almost as high as Mount Everest!
Make sure you look down as you view the exhibit area. Embedded in the floor are movie screens showing the flow of the river and the stories around it. Quite an interesting way to view history. The courtyard of the Center invites you to a trail leading to the cabin of one of Teton's early proponents. It is a short walk through the woods and worth the effort.
In the front of the center, on the patio, views of the mountain range are breathtaking. They rise straight from the valley floor - no foothills, just straight up. It's a dramatic sight with snow around the top of the peaks and a good place to pause and reflect or just stare at the magnificence of it all. Of course, there are other ways to view the Tetons - maybe a day-long hike or hop on a rubber raft to enjoy the view from the river.
We headed back to camp via the shorter route over Teton Pass suggested by the I-Maps GPS. Before long we realized why it was shorter - instead of the 6% incline of US 26, this was a 10% grade on a twisting, two-lane road. The Unity struggled with the steep grade, slowing to 35 miles an hour (although you really couldn't go much faster on such a serpentine roadway).
Traveling in the afternoon, the wind had begun to pick up and buffeted the RV as we made our way along the narrow road. Going down was something of a white knuckle ride for me with all the switchbacks. Caution signs seemed to line the road warning to downshift, slow down, and mind the sharp curves. Those signs with the truck tipping over were my least favorite reminder! I don't recommend driving an RV on that route but the scenery was almost as dramatic as the ride!
Safely back on level ground, we followed the Snake River through Swan Valley, a handful of small towns, and finally the expanse of wheat fields that surrounded our campground. The wind turbines came into view and seemed to keep time with the breeze.
That evening, as the sun began to set, I washed up the dinner dishes and looked out over the reservoir to the ridge of wind turbines. Tall and elegant white blades turning in the fading light. Then, as if on cue, they all blinked red - and continued that light show all night long.
